What's your favorite 2wd steel drive shaft upgrade and why

Jeb

Well-Known Member
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337
Location
West Glover, VT
Thinking about upgrading the stock drive shafts on the Amp I've been racing with. The stock drive shafts are still working and have put up with some severe punishment, but they are twisted and binding up the rear suspension which is limiting shock travel. Just wanted some input in what people like. I've been looking at the Hot Racing upgrade
http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=684
Thanks in advance for your input.
 
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I have these on my ruckus, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Racin...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Haven't fully tested them out so can't really give a review yet, one thing with them though is that the thread part isn't as long as the stock so you can't use the stock rubber washer in-between the wheel and nut, I am going to get some thinner rubber washers for them.
 
Oh, and another thing, if you do buy them from USA which seems to be the only place you can get them don't forget about customs, cost me an extra £16 on top for customs.
 
Thinking about upgrading the stock drive shafts on the Amp I've been racing with. The stock drive shafts are still working and have put up with some severe punishment, but they are twisted and binding up the rear suspension which is limiting shock travel. Just wanted some input in what people like. I've been looking at the Hot Racing upgrade
http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=684
Thanks in advance for your input.
I just upgraded two cars with Hot Racing Steel axles my AMP and Torment and man what a difference, no more broken and bent axles. I'm running a Gen Ace 7000mAh 60C battery and Castle 4600KV motor in both trucks and man what a difference in speed and run times. So far i have gotten 45 min run time on the Torment without depleting the battery. Hot Racing is a great place to find upgrades and their turn around is fantastic.
 
Thinking about upgrading the stock drive shafts on the Amp I've been racing with. The stock drive shafts are still working and have put up with some severe punishment, but they are twisted and binding up the rear suspension which is limiting shock travel. Just wanted some input in what people like. I've been looking at the Hot Racing upgrade
http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=684
Thanks in advance for your input.
When you order your axles make sure you order the same ones that look like your stock plastic ones ( tubular).
 

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Thinking about upgrading the stock drive shafts on the Amp I've been racing with. The stock drive shafts are still working and have put up with some severe punishment, but they are twisted and binding up the rear suspension which is limiting shock travel. Just wanted some input in what people like. I've been looking at the Hot Racing upgrade
http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=684
Thanks in advance for your input.

This is what you will need. 18 dollars for the spur and 48 for the axles at Hot Racing
 

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I have these on my ruckus, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Racing-SECT288X06-Heavy-Duty-Star-Drive-Cv-Kit-2Wd-Electric-ECX/382120154843?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Haven't fully tested them out so can't really give a review yet, one thing with them though is that the thread part isn't as long as the stock so you can't use the stock rubber washer in-between the wheel and nut, I am going to get some thinner rubber washers for them.
Those are the best, I have those on my Torment and they performing well, no probat all. Also put them on my AMP.
 
IMG_3484.JPG IMG_3485.PNG They never broke through almost 7 months of punishment and they've been pushed by a 4000kv with a 21t spur the while time. I run entirely on dirt and gravel and race on a dirt short course track. Probably why they lasted so long. They are twisted and loose and I don't want to risk failure in a race. The internal sleeves are also twisted and binding up which messes with my shock travel. I'm sure the sleeved version is stronger, but I wanted to limit weight and not have the sleeved version because it gets bound up in the terrain I drive in. I use a shorter associated spring set which lowers my ride height and center of gravity for better cornering, but I also have to get the most out of less shock travel. That's the main reason I chose this set of driveshafts. We'll see how it goes and I'll keep you updated. We have 2 Amps and a Circuit I just picked up used, so there's many more chances to experiment.
 
View attachment 2405 View attachment 2406 They never broke through almost 7 months of punishment and they've been pushed by a 4000kv with a 21t spur the while time. I run entirely on dirt and gravel and race on a dirt short course track. Probably why they lasted so long. They are twisted and loose and I don't want to risk failure in a race. The internal sleeves are also twisted and binding up which messes with my shock travel. I'm sure the sleeved version is stronger, but I wanted to limit weight and not have the sleeved version because it gets bound up in the terrain I drive in. I use a shorter associated spring set which lowers my ride height and center of gravity for better cornering, but I also have to get the most out of less shock travel. That's the main reason I chose this set of driveshafts. We'll see how it goes and I'll keep you updated. We have 2 Amps and a Circuit I just picked up used, so there's many more chances to experiment.
 
Jeb, thanks for the info, never those CV'S only read the reviews on them. I myself mostly run/race on concrete or asphalt and sometimes go to the BMX bike park nearby and jump. All my trucks do 65 plus except for my Axial and Yeti 4 wheelers. I run my trucks with the Castle 4600K brushless motor and Gen Ace 7200mAh 60C Lipo batteries. I've used many different brands of batterys and found the Gen Ace to be much more reliable and out perform the other brands. The only thing just you have to modify the battery compartment as the battery is quite thick. I get about an hour of run time with these batterys and the don't seem to get hot, also great price. At our hobby shop $79 for the 7200mAh. I've seen them a couple dollars cheaper at RC Plant.
Below is my knew Traxxas body that I modified to fit my Torment Chassis with extended body mounts, and also added the bars on the body. It definitely saves the body and 90% of the time when it rolls or flips, it lands back on it's wheels.
 

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Jeb, thanks for the info, never those CV'S only read the reviews on them. I myself mostly run/race on concrete or asphalt and sometimes go to the BMX bike park nearby and jump. All my trucks do 65 plus except for my Axial and Yeti 4 wheelers. I run my trucks with the Castle 4600K brushless motor and Gen Ace 7200mAh 60C LiPo batteries. I've used many different brands of batterys and found the Gen Ace to be much more reliable and out perform the other brands. The only thing just you have to modify the battery compartment as the battery is quite thick. I get about an hour of run time with these batterys and the don't seem to get hot, also great price. At our hobby shop $79 for the 7200mAh. I've seen them a couple dollars cheaper at RC Plant.
Below is my knew Traxxas body that I modified to fit my Torment Chassis with extended body mounts, and also added the bars on the body. It definitely saves the body and 90% of the time when it rolls or flips, it lands back on it's wheels.
Good looking truck man! I'm using Flouereon 6200 40c, Peak Racing 5000 45c, and been running a SMC 7200 90c in my Tekno sct 410.3 4x4. It has a hobbywing xr8 4300 combo in it. Total beast mode, but man is it fun to race.
 
IMG_3488.JPG So far so good. The cvd's are fully enclosed and the driveshaft slides in the upper enclosure. Shocks are moving freely again. Can't wait to try them out, but off to work I go...
 
Update. I canned the hot racing axle upgrade. I blew another metal diff and just did a complete tranny over haul. When I hit the throttle the gearing was shuttering and not running smoothly after re assembly. It acted the same before I took it apart. On the last run before I tore it down the esc over heated and the motor got up to 174, which hasn't happened in the 6 months I've run the truck. I think the added weight of the steel axles was not very well ballanced and contributing to premature diff failure. I installed my spare plastic axles and it runs smoothly again. Oh well, guess I have spares for a short term fix in event of a breakdown. I would not recommend this upgrade for the Amp.
 
I keep hearing about everyone running 4K and above motors and more powerful batteries and not having many issues. I’m running a Castle 3800 sensored with a Venom Lipo 2s 5000 25c batt with stock pinion and I snapped a stock axle in the first 5 mins. Put on MIP axles and broke one of them on the 4th battery. I completely shredded an ECX metal gear pack in one battery. The only other upgrades I have on the truck besides the motor, gears and axles is ecx big bore shocks and a Servo saver delete. I don’t get it. I don’t even jump it or anything like that. I rip it up and down the road and in my yard.
 
A 3800kv motor has a lot of torque, however I don't understand why you would be snapping CV'S on a 2s battery. I'm assuming this is happening on your Ruckus. You can try these CV'S in the pic below from Hot Racing or go to a mid Castle motor (4600KV) or both. The 4600KV has less torque but more top end.
Also make sure your pinion and spur gears are meshed correctly by using a piece of paper between the two gears. If you can afford it go to all metal differential and spur and pinion.
 

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A 3800kv motor has a lot of torque, however I don't understand why you would be snapping CV'S on a 2s battery. I'm assuming this is happening on your Ruckus. You can try these CV'S in the pic below from Hot Racing or go to a mid Castle motor (4600KV) or both. The 4600KV has less torque but more top end.
Also make sure your pinion and spur gears are meshed correctly by using a piece of paper between the two gears. If you can afford it go to all metal differential and spur and pinion.
I’ve already got the metal tranny pack. Shredded one of those already too. My rear axles are MIP x-duty hardened steel axles. It keeps snapping the cv pin after about 5 mins of use. I left the plastic spur in cause I was thinking if anything is going to fail in the tranny that would be the part. Nope it wasn’t. The teeth on the metal gears pulled a Houdini and disappeared. I love this truck when I actually get to drive it. Unfortunately since I put the Castle in its on the bench torn apart more than I get to drive it.
 

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