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Yes, those are calibers. I still run it for fun. I raced them in the stadium truck class, but haven’t had enough entries to keep the class going lately. I run an old pro2 in 2wd short course and a Tekno 410.3 in 4x4 short course. Still love my amp because it’s what got me back into the hobby.

Ready to rip...

We’ve been racing for a while now, but my son has a buddy over and we’re heading to the track in the morning. Putting an Amp buggy back together so everyone has a rig to run. Should go good when I’m done. Been a little busy lately.

I love taping crawler runs and have some YouTube videos. This truck has evolved considerably since I got it.

Yep, 1/10 medium wheel base

I love my Ascender. Picked it up barely used at a local track from a guy that bought it for his dad and he had lost interest. I’ve had a ton of fun modifying it and it’s an extremely capable rig now.

You’ll have to lower the ride height to get past 60mph by shortening the shocks. I was doing speed runs with 3s and a 26t pinion and too much air gets under it and it starts wheelying and a massive tumble. I don’t think my TBR bumper helped with aerodynamics. Haha...

I had 3 Amps, and yeah the hinge pin holders do wear out early. I bought 3 replacements before I drilled it out and added long screws with nylock nuts. Haven’t had any more issues. I fabbed up an aluminum pin holder for the front and that solved the bulkhead breaking up front. Pretty bomb proof now.

It should be fine on 2wd. In larger 4x4 systems the ir will cause problems. We just had a pack with higher ir start melting the solder at the esc. Switched to a different pack and it was fine. I ran the same pack on my 2wd with no problems. Gonna mark that pack to just use in our crawlers now.

Proline Blazer body, and a silverado rustler body work. Quite a bit of body mount mods to use the blazer body, but the wheelbase is good.

Try ebay. I’ve found some good deals on barely used components to keep my son’s running.

It has terrific range as in it go as far as you can see anyway. They are great for crawling and bashing. Not so great for racing. The response time has a lag that you will notice when racing. They are a great economical radio for the right applications.

I have 4 hooked to it. A cool trick is that it will simultaneously drive all 4 at once. Put them in a line and have fun. Kinda like racing yourself ?

Proline makes a screw cap kit. You just cut the body post off at the base and thread a screw in for the cap. I use them on all my racing rigs and my Amp Blazer after too many speed runs with wheelies sliding on the lid ground the posts right off...

Have fun and as you upgrade keep in mind what will break so that it’s easier and cheaper to fix. I kept all the plastic A arms because I’d rather those break than the bulk heads which are more time consuming to replace. Get yourself a temp gun and monitor motor temps. You don’t really want them...

It should be fine. If you have access to compressed air, blow it off before you put it away. I usually just let them sit in the basement until it melts and then spray wd-40 on the bearings. Never had an issue with snow causing problems. The cold does make plastic brittle, so be careful with...

I had one with the BEC malfunctioning and cooking servos. Horizon replaced it free of charge and have had no problems in 2 years since. You should contact Horizon, they’ll hook you up.

Add about 3/4 oz of wheel weights in the servo tray and try some thicker shock oil. I messed a lot with various springs and went back to stock. I run 50 weight in the front and 40 weight in the rear. You can also use zip ties to add spring tension on the shock collars.

This got me inspired to go check the connections on my old amp. It ran fine on lipos, but would shut down with nimh every time you punched the throttle. I found the wire was half broken at the deans battery plug on the esc. Cut it, re soldered, and wham, everything works great again. I just...

Have you calibrated it? And what radio are you using because settings affect proper calibration.