Boost Motor Wires

RonimusPrime

Active Member
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30
The first thing I updated on my roost was changing the motor to a 15T. After a few runs, the positive wire popped off. To keep running, I put the 20T back in. Now that's popped a negative wire. It looks like the wire physically broke in both cases—there are no burn marks. Are they just using junk wire or is there some kind of weird problem? In both cases, I lost the magnets, too.
 
First: Welcome to the ECX Forum! It's nice to have another Boost driver.

Not junk wire nor a weird problem. The endbell of the motor is really exposed and subjected to all sorts of bumps when driving or even transporting your Boost. I've had both wires break off right at the endbell solder tabs. The magnets aren't terribly important. Neither my Boost (which is now brushed again) nor my AMP have the ferrite magnets on their motor leads and the cars seem to suffer no ill effects.

What I've done is to gently bend the endbell tabs inward towards the center of the motor in an effort to keep the wires from sticking straight out and in harm's way. When I resoldered I also flattened out the exposed wire so it made a nice, full contact with the tab. I also doubled up on the heatshrink to act as a stress reliever.
 
Thanks for the tab-bending advice! I also used judicious wire ties to route them away from the non-guarded area. The 15T is reinstalled with a brand new pinion gear (I managed to snap the original), and I'm back in action. Man the Boost can rip with a 15-turn motor and a middle-of-the-road LiPo!
 
Whoops... sorry for yet another question. I meant to ask it earlier. Is your 15T motor a 540 or 550 size?

The Dynamite 540 size has a regular sticker on it, just like the 20T and the 550 size is a little longer and has a metal sleeve on it with a smaller Dynamite sticker.

Shortly before switching to brushless, I installed a 550 15T motor on my Boost. Mistake. The motor was obviously heavier (the Boost is already has too much of a rear weight bias) and the longer motor "can" made the endbell completely vulnerable to damage. I was racing on an indoor carpet track and the motor was getting hit during crashes and tumbles.

I'd recommend switching to brushless. Something in the neighborhood of 3000kv would be good. Much more than that and your buggy will turn into a wheelie machine. I ran a Reedy 17.5T (don't ask me why there are "turn" and "kv" designations for BL motors... so confusing... but 17.5T is equivalent to about 2200kv) with 72/33 gearing and loved it. Loads of torque and snappy acceleration.
 
It's a 540 motor. 550s tend to be dogs, yes. I do plan on going brushless, and I was looking between 3000-3500kv. Guess I'm on the right track!

I currently have the Sidewinder SCT system with the 3800kv motor on my Proline Pro-MT, and it's a wheelie monster. Don't need two of those! :)
 

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