shocks oil

Vivendus

Well-Known Member
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150
Location
Perth WA
With an amp and ruckus ive read you can improve the shocks dramatically with a better quality oil. Can someone point in the direction of type and instructions plz?
 
Hmmm. Got some study to do... seems ill have to go a thicker oil due to the weather here in Perth (mad max duststorms or dodging drop bears). Cheers guys
 
Yea, you'll have to experiment with different weights. I prefer 30wt. Associated makes great shock oil.


I'll second the team associated oil.
 
I thought one of my shocks on my Amp MT was underfilled because its damping was way less than the shock on the other side. That was not the case though. I didn't even know there was such a thing as "better shock oil". It's just viscous drab in a sealed container?

I'll try draining it tonight though, maybe it gets better if I replace all of the original shock oil. But I'm thinking it's just a dud valve. It gives a squirty feeling, as if there are bubbles in it (but there are not).
 
I thought one of my shocks on my Amp MT was underfilled because its damping was way less than the shock on the other side. That was not the case though. I didn't even know there was such a thing as "better shock oil". It's just viscous drab in a sealed container?

I'll try draining it tonight though, maybe it gets better if I replace all of the original shock oil. But I'm thinking it's just a dud valve. It gives a squirty feeling, as if there are bubbles in it (but there are not).

The "squirty" feeling is air in the shock. There is either a leak, or there was air bubbles in the oil when originally filled, or it was under filled. Some times these things can be hard to detect.
 
I see. I should empty it completely then. It had a bit of dead (undamped) travel at full extension as well. I figured any bubbles would float up if I moved the plunger thing up and down, but then again this ain't water I guess.
 
I see. I should empty it completely then. It had a bit of dead (undamped) travel at full extension as well. I figured any bubbles would float up if I moved the plunger thing up and down, but then again this ain't water I guess.

I know it often takes several (alot) extensions of the plunger to get the air completely out. It helps quite a bit if there is a bleeder on the shock cap.
 
Excuse the stoopid question; if i was to purchase aluminium shocks such as these, am i required to install my own oil?

Every set of shocks I have purchased needed oil. I am not familiar with the ECX shocks, but the ad in your linked auction does show the following:

upload_2016-4-19_8-10-27.png
 
So I took the shock out again today, it was full of bubbles. I moved the piston up and down a dozen times but the bubbles move very slowly to the surface, so I let it sit for a few minutes. Moved the piston again, more bubbles came up from underneath (guess they were trapped). Let it sit again for a few minutes. Did this two more rounds until I was sure there was nothing in it. Then I filled it up with just a little preload (rebound?), the shaft extends like 7mm when unloaded.

The squirty feeling is now gone, but it is still underdamped compared to the shock on the other side :( maybe the valve is just weaker. I'll try to do the other one later and make sure the preload is the same.

I'm thinking of getting a few on ebay. Is there a problem with using shocks made for crawlers? Apparently the 90mm (front) size is very common for crawlers, so the cheapest options are crawler shocks.
 
The aluminum ECX shocks are quite good for the price. And they'll be a direct replacement with no fussing. The threaded spring preload collars are nice. I run them on my Boost (the Boost rear shocks are a little shorter than those on the other AMP 2WD cars.)
 

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