can i use this esc?

[truckstuff]

i recently bought a 60a gool rc es and 3500kv motor the motor is great but the esc caught fire first day of running and the company refused to replace it although we later noticed the water seal was missing (its a "waterproof" model) and that is probably why it failed anyway i need a cheap temp replacement for it now and i found this
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Hobby...oys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492021927&sr=1-388
its designed for a helicopter but it has the same connections and its rated 40a which the 60a fried but the stock 40a brushed esc that came with this truck lasted a little over a month so i think 40a will do fine for now as long as i run it cool i am just wondering if there is any difference in the way the truck and heli esc works yes i now some heli esc dont have bec but this one does and its rated 5v@3a which is fine for the reciever/servo

 

[xlDooM]

I wouldn't risk it. I've never owned a helicopter, but does it have braking function? Reverse? Will it survive constantly accelerating from zero revs? Can it survive a full throttle stall, e.g. when you're trying to get out of a ditch?

I'm sorry to hear your GoolRC ESC burnt up, I've never hesitated to recommend this and mine is still working great... Was it on 2s?

 

[truckstuff]

thanks for the reply after a little research i discovered that the helicopter esc can only supply a burst current of 50a which is even lower than the recalled 40a esc that came with the truck so im gonna avoid it and the gool rc esc was being used with a 3s lipo but it is also brand new(got the same time as the esc) and its a 2200mah 25c so it can put out 55a and i doubt that it uses the whole 60a draw since it ran for months with a 40a esc given it also had the stock 15t brushed motor so maybe im wrong but to draw an extra 20a because of lower friction seems unlikley

 

[xlDooM]

You are right that the numbers say it should have worked. But I'm not going to risk it, 2s is plenty fast for me the only evidence of fried GoolRC ESCs I've seen so far has all been on 3s so it seems the specs are optimistic.

 

[truckstuff]

well that's good to know now XD
but i just bought 2 brand new 2200 mh 25c 3s batteries so i'm gonna go ahead and spend the extra $10-$20 and get something the new batteries wont ruin rather than replace my new batterys

 

[i_r_beej]

i recently bought a 60a gool rc es and 3500kv motor the motor is great but the ESC caught fire first day of running and the company refused to replace it

I know this isn't really helpful, but HOLY COW! That is precisely why I buy Hobbywing ESCs.

 

[truckstuff]

well i looked around and found this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301959895767?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
from the looks of it id say that the 60a goolrc esc was based on this (they share almost the exact same design)
though im assuming that the hobbywing version is probably made with better quality

so onto questions #1 im gonna be running it on 2200mah 25c 3s lipos (im not sure but i read that the max amp output of the battery can be calculated like this 2200/1000=2.2*25=55Amps) so would the esc or battery burn due to drawing more amps than the battery can put out? should i consider a 45a esc instead and if i did whats the odds the motor (3500kv 3650) would draw over 45a and burn my esc or motor?

 

[truckstuff]

i also found a castle sidewinder sv2 (i have heard great things about this one that castle makes the best escs ever) but im scared because castle dont rate their products with amps and im using a battery only capable of 55 amps i would hate to buy a nice one like a castle just to have it burn up so i want your opinions do you think a 1/10 2wd ruckus with a 3500kv motor and 2200mah 25c 3s and everything else is stock including the pinion/spur of 17/87 would burn any of the electronics and if so what?

 

[xlDooM]

If the battery is the weakest link, the car just doesn't go as fast. Nothing will burn up because the battery can't keep up.

Something can always burn up. But I see no reason why you would have any electronics problems. Hobbywing has a good reputation. If your gearing is not appropriate for what you run on, you can still burn it up (or the motor) though.

 

[truckstuff]

i found a castle sidewinder sct for an amazing deal but it has no fan but a place to put a fan does it have to have a fan to run? (if it does i still want it i just want to know if ill need to put a fan on) and i want your opinion on weather it would be the right choice for my truck

 

[i_r_beej]

Running a 3500kv motor you'll probably not need a fan. I run a 17.5T (2200kv) and 13.5T (2800kv) in my two race cars and only the car with a 13.5T motor runs a fan on the ESC. Neither ESC gets much more than 100-deg F after 10 minutes at a race pace (practice laps). Get a non-contact IR temp gauge (US$20 at Home Depot or similar) and check the motor and ESC every few minutes to get characterization of how the components will fare. If you want a fan, the 30mm fans are cheap and easy to find.

A note about buying Hobbywing stuff on Ebay: Unless it's a used component, it's probably bootleg and I'd highly recommend avoiding that stuff. Buy directly from Hobbywing's USA distributor.

Their prices are good and they offer free shipping on most things most of the time. Plus you're certain to be getting legit equipment with an actual warranty.