Couple questions about the AMP MT

Awesome. Can't wait to build these with my son. I'm buying two kits for us to build together. That way we can both learn all the components and how it's put together. We enjoy playing with our r/c scale crawlers now, but we are just wanting something with a little speed and can jump, race, etc. I would pick these up at my LHS but it's the same price as online, plus I would have to pay taxes plus the gas to drive an hour to my nearest hobby shop to get them. Besides I'm having to order the servos and wait for them anyway.

2 more questions:

I have 7 total 2s 4000-5200 mah lipos hard case that we use for our crawlers. Thing is most of them is 20c. Will those be fine to use?

Servo horn, I like running aluminum servo horns on most of my rc's. I understand the Power HD servo is 25t. What 25t aluminum servo horn would be best fit on this truck?
 
Mine hasn't stripped yet, in about 20 packs that it's been on. It proved stronger than the caster block on one particular crash...

As for your battery question, I have a 3800mAh 25C and a 5200mAh 50C and I can't tell which one is in it without looking at the sticker.
 
Yes, something to be said for C rating. I recently went from 25C to 65C and that initial punch from standstill is worlds apart.
 
I also fly electric model airplanes and on those the C rating is a pretty important role, especially for my sport planes where I need a sudden burst of power. Now on my crawlers the C rating is least important because your going slow 95% of the time. So I guess my 20C's should be fine then huh...
 
Then again, when the stocks start grinding, fasteddys are not that expensive. Maybe keep it as a replace when it breaks (or in this case sounds like cr@p and doesn't spin) part.
I run RPM parts in mine (Arms , spindle, castor blocks etc) as I wanted to keep away from Aluminium. I also run a TactixTSX40 along with an RPM SS Eliminator. I had the exact problem that X was having until I got the new servo (I also used a servo arm with more teeth (should be spares of different sizes that came in the box).
Steering is great now, especially as I recently got myself some new shoes (Duratrax 6 Pack STs). I can not talk up enough the difference now ive had them for a while.
Also, I got the T-Bone bumpers which are really good, but pretty expensive.
 
Vivendus said:
Then again, when the stocks start grinding, fasteddys are not that expensive. Maybe keep it as a replace when it breaks (or in this case sounds like cr@p and doesn't spin) part.
I run RPM parts in mine (Arms , spindle, castor blocks etc) as I wanted to keep away from Aluminium. I also run a TactixTSX40 along with an RPM SS Eliminator. I had the exact problem that X was having until I got the new servo (I also used a servo arm with more teeth (should be spares of different sizes that came in the box).
Steering is great now, especially as I recently got myself some new shoes (Duratrax 6 Pack STs). I can not talk up enough the difference now ive had them for a while.
Also, I got the T-Bone bumpers which are really good, but pretty expensive.
Click to expand...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMJM&P=ML

Is this the tires you have? And what rims are u using with them?
 
Well finally got my order in for two kits, one for me and one for my son to build. Also ordered two Power HD 1501 MG servos. I will probably try CA gluing the stock SS and see how that works. The rest I will just upgrade as I go, or as things may break.
 
So should I pop open the case and see? I know on my crawlers I use Lucas ReD N Tacky grease in the transmission on the gears, they are metal but even plastic I would still grease.

You think this should need it also?

BTW, I'm pretty sure the kit version has all the same components as the RTR, it's just all took apart, except for the gearbox.
 
pretty sure the gears are plastic, you have to buy the metal gear set separately even on the kit, and isn't it white lithium grease for the gears?
 

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