Need Advice: Drive Shafts, Hex Conversion, Wheels

Jerry-Rigged said:
Piling on to this topic -

Has anyone used the SECT288? - http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=685

This would be for a Torment, but I think the rear end is the same for Torment and Ruckus...

Also, the included hex - it is steel or plastic? Looks like plastic in the pic. I do see they sell steel ones for another $13.

Edit - now I see where it says "steel Hex" Gotta read the whole page... LOL
Click to expand...
Jerry I just this, on the Torment and Ruckus the dog bones will bind in the diff outdrives. Skip ahead to 1:00.
 
slick2500 said:
Jerry I just this, on the Torment and Ruckus the dog bones will bind in the diff outdrives. Skip ahead to 1:00.
Click to expand...

Have you had issues with this binding issue? I need to replace my hex to aluminum and figure mine as well go with driveshaft as well. Looking for best option also I don’t bash TOO HARD, so no need to spend the $50 plus I see out there. Interested in how yours worked
 
GrymReaper said:
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.

Thanks again for your help,
Grym
Click to expand...

Grym, the Hot Racing 288X06 will work well. All necessary hardware is in the package. I use these CV'S (axial) on my ECX AMP Monster truck, Ruckus and Torment. I have had absolutely no problem with them.
 
In that video...What I DO NOT LIKE is seeing he has brand new bearings, and his dog bones portion of this upgrade at FULL EXTENSION are at a very close point to the edge of the tranny drive cup. (with the wheel/tire put on tight...I am sure it looks even closer) *The keyed set MIP10130 I used eliminates this issue. My only gripe was I learned it was needed to make a small spacer for the space in between the hub/bearings on the drive axle. I noticed when cranking down wheel nuts, I was hurting the bearings. I made my "Spacer" from Losi XXX-T parts. Problem solved. (2 min on a grinder and dial calipers with a small 4mm axle bearing spacer...done deal).
 
Ok not to beat this up I purchased these SECT288X06 drive shafts. What I can figure out is how the wheel attached to the drive shaft. Mine came with the steel hubs that have two screws to hold it in place. My stock wheel won't accept the hex nut, the wheel was driven by the pin that fit into the slot. The hex nut is darn near bigger than the wheel hub. Am I missing something?
 

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